Kleiderei
Eva Gronbach
Gunee Homme
Fenja Ludwig
Lanius
Lanius
Gunee Homme
Anna Dezet
Strehlow
Beron
Strehlow
Strehlow
FH Bielefeld
Embassy of Bricks and Logs
FH Bielefeld
Bee by Bill
Kurz & Weit Brillenmanufaktur
Design Department
FH Bielefeld
Anna Termöhlen
LEVIT02
Lanius
Strehlow
Anna Dezet
FH Bielefeld
Anna Termöhlen
Herrenbude
Embassy of Bricks and Logs
Beron
Wunderwerk
Fenja Ludwig
Design Department
Gunee Homme
Eva Gronbach
Beron
Embassy of Bricks and Logs
Wunderwerk
Bee by Bill
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Eva Gronbach
Kleiderei
Design Department
Marion Strehlow
Levit02
Sibylle Boveleth
Photography meets fashion
Niko Vatheuer
Fritz Ferdinand
Wildling Shoes
Anna Dezet
Anna Termöhlen
Michaela Reinhardt
Creator and Muse
Ina & Jens Heinzerling
Eva Gronbach
Achim Schmitz
Photography meets fashion
Heiko Wunder
Rolf Rainer Footwear
Gunee Homme
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Claudia Lanius
Elina & Irina Solomonov
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Editorial

The online version of our NRW Fashion Edition of the Heimatdesign Magazine No. 17

Dear readers,

In this online version of our NRW fashion edition of the Heimatdesign magazine – issue no. 17 – we take you on a journey to visit people from North Rhine-Westphalia who design fashion, often based on sustainable concepts, and we give a brief insight into the amazing opportunities offered by the fashion schools in the region. Moreover, we address different approaches of crafting shoes as well as the commitment of making the sector visible through exciting formats. In statements, short essays and interviews we learn what spurs the designers, where they get their inspiration or go to relax.

Fashion breaks the ground and will be followed by two more issues that report on the brilliant interior and communication designers in the region.

Hope to see you,

Reinhild Kuhn & Marc Röbbecke

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf

Fashion Designer in a flash?

Interview: Gabriele Orsech, Design Department, Düsseldorf

How do I become a fashion designer? The job title is not protected which is why, in principle, everyone can call him or herself a fashion designer — also without a respective education. It makes sense, however, to learn the basics from experts in the field. In NRW, several institutions offer an education that comprises figurative and anatomic drawing, fashion illustration, collection design, cutting techniques as well as history of fashion, marketing and more. In 2009, Gabriele Orsech founded the Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication Düsseldorf. We talked to her.

As an educational site, NRW offers various opportunities in the field of fashion and design. What is special about the Design Department?

What makes the Design Department stand out is it’s interdisciplinarity. With us, you do not decide for one program of study but find fashion and communication design combined with management tools. Our graduates have studied design in an up-to-date manner and, through our partner college, the Steinbeis Hochschule Berlin, have a Bachelor’s degree in Business Adminis­tra­tion / Fashion Management as well. This qualifies them for leading positions in the creative management sector.

What are the prerequisites one should bring along for an education in the field of fashion?

Commitment. Life isn’t a virtual fake. If you want to achieve something you mustn’t be easily satisfied. Your application portfolio and a personal conversation should of course reveal creativity, originality and talent as well.

Founding a label or looking for employment: to your mind, what is the more promising alternative after graduation?

Clearly employment. Most graduates do not have the funds, the contacts and the experience to launch their own business. A few years with a successful label trains the eye. It quickly becomes evident who is suited for self-employment.
I always find it comforting when my students work for international labels first. I have seen a number of bad investments, tears and disappointment by unexperienced first-time entrepreneurs. They often have problems to find access to the sector afterwards as well.

What are your graduates doing today?

The spectrum ranges from classic fashion design for international companies all the way into the agency sector. Consultancies for social change, magazines, theatres and opera houses as well as movie and television productions are the clients. I even have graduates who entered a PhD program after their Master’s degree and work for museums, curating exhibitions.
Many of our graduates have star­ted working with big names from the fashion world — like Stella McCartney, Ann Demeulemeester, A. F. Vandevorst, Dries Van Noten, Akris, Erdem, Acne Studios and Pringle of Scotland to Alexander McQueen and Adidas.
More important than the popularity of the brand is that almost all our graduates a doing a good job — no matter if in German or international enterprises.

Can you recommend fashion events in NRW?

Personally, I like the exhibitions at the NRW-Forum that focus on fashion or fashion photography.

Author : Anja Kiel

Design Department
Campus: Mindener Straße 33a, 40227 Düsseldorf
designdept.de

Design Department

Photographer: Nathan Ishar, Fashion: Daniel Cabrera, Model: Lisa Steinmeier, Aquamarine Model Management

Design Department

Photography: Katarzyna Salamon, Fashion Design und Styling: Emine Altin, Make-up / Hair: Sarah Loewe, Muse / Model: Melissa Wirth, Photoassistent: Sharareh Ahmadi Taj

Design Department

Photographer: Nathan Ishar, Fashion: Joel Schumacher, Model: Thomas Cléda / Rad Model Management

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf

A fabulous networker

The events PLATFORM FASHION und TNRWDI (The NRW Design Issue) enrich the local fashion scene like no others. We spoke with founder Jonas Klingenstein from the agency The Fable.

As the founder of Platform Fashion, you were able to celebrate the fifth anniversary last year. What exactly is it that you are doing and what makes the ongoing success of Platform Fashion?

Platform Fashion is a platform for the high-end presentation of fashion in Düsseldorf. Twice a year, in the context of CPD (Collection Première Düsseldorf), we stage selected labels media and emotion-wise in an attractive atmosphere. We unite different audiences such as designers, members of the press, as well as trendsetters and guests interested in fashion under a single roof.
If you look at historically grown fashion metropoles like Paris, London or New York, the staging of fashion is an important aspect of the whole sector. One wants to be seen, this holds for designers and labels as well as for guests; be it at an exhibition, a get-together or on the runway.
After 5 years and 10 seasons, Platform Fashion has moreover become a central place for exchange and ecounter, off- and online. In this way Platform Fashion is very much alive on various channels not only during the days of CPD but throughout the year.
Platform Fashion doesn’t attract a professional audience alone but brings people who are simply inte­rested in fashion to Düsseldorf as well as they can be admitted to se­lec­ted presentations too. We believe in the power of joint social events.

What is your assessment of the fashion scene in North Rhine-Westphalia? Are there particu­larities, maybe even obstacles, to be found?

First of all, we are excited about the amount of creative potential in North Rhine-Westphalia — especi­ally in the fashion scene. The North Rhine-West­phalia fashion scene is highly diversified. There a numerous amazing labels and designers from North Rhine-Westphalia with a wide range of orientations and positions. And the active scene isn’t confined to the metropoles of Düsseldorf and Köln!
The sector and the federal state should keep rating their attempts high to make both small and big labels and designers stay in the region and to convey to graduates from local fashion schools that they will find opti­mum conditions for their career in many places in North Rhine-Westphalia.

The rumour goes that you are runing a small promotion initiative with The NRW Design Issue. What’s behind this, and what were the results of the first issue?

In 2018 and supported by us as the creative agency, the ministry of economics of North Rhine-Westphalia initiated the project The NRW Design Issue with the objective of promoting young fashion design.
In close collaboration with the fine art sector, young designers and labels are offered the chance for creative exchange — for instance through presentations in art galleries, stagings on the runway, or expert talks and workshops. The format is supported by various project partners including Creative.nrw, le bloc, Galerien Düsseldorf, Monopol or arte.
Directly after publishing the first issue, we were able to realize additional events with varying partners for “our” The NRW Design Issue desig­ners — for instance a joint pre­sence at le bloc in Cologne, trips to Fashionclash in Maastricht, or a match making at the Amsterdam Modefabriek. We are continuously amazed and extremely inspired by the engagement of the participating designers and how they enjoy colla­borating.

Where do you situate yourself in this context? An agency’s work takes place at many intersection, doesn’t it?

As a creative agency, we work for various sectors and clients — not only as event managers. In the context of Platform Fashion or The NRW Design Issue, we see ourselves as initiators and in some sense also as directors. There are many commonalities with the classic agency business. In our function we need to have everything under control — from in­no­­vative creation and reliable project management to strategic communication and the transparent realization of the projects.
Connecting and guiding completely different partners to unite different aims can be a challenge — but this, and growing in the process, is exactly what we enjoy doing. And applying our expertise to a creative project like The NRW Design Issue is even more rewarding.

What are the further plans for 2019? What projects are awaiting us?

First of all, we look forward to realiz­ing extremely exciting projects for various industrial clients that are already in preparation. Moreover, the planning for the third issue of The NRW Design Issue has begun; presumably, it will be published around the period of July 18 to 21, 2019 (that is for the next CPD). It includes many ideas and new approaches. In any case, we are already looking forward to some extraordinary days with numerous inspirations! Please come and join us!

Interview: Miedya Mahmod

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf

The Passion for manufacturing shoes

Different approaches on crafting shoes

“Manufacturing shoes — that’s a hard one!” Elina Solomonov is sighing. So why did the designer get herself into it nonetheless? Because she couldn’t find a sandal to her liking. Hence she designed one herself and, together with her mother, the fashion designer Irina Solomonov, founded her own label in Dortmund about four years ago.
LEVIT02 offers plain sandals made from plant-tanned leather in an unisex design. The search for an appropriate production facility proved to be difficult. After unsatisfying first attempts in Portugal, an Italian two-man manufacture finally supplied the requested quality. Elina Solomonov describes her traget group as follows: “Creative thinkers, hipsters, people that cherish craftsmanship and quality.”
The clients of Rolf Rainer value craftsmanship and quality as well. The shoemaker manufactures custom-made shoes in his workshop in Mettmann — following comprehensive consulting, measuring of the feet and the fabrication of individual lasts. The leather is supplied from select tanneries in Germany and his repair service ensures that the shoes render their service to their wearers for decades. “My ambition is to change the consumption behaviour. Footwear is not supposed to be a disposable product,” Rainer explains which is why he also offers workshops in which participants manufacture their own shoes.
Selina Strunck benefited from the knowledge of a shoemaker as well. “Shoes have always fascinated me,” she says. But when she tried to manufacture her first shoe from a handmade gypsum last she had trouble joining the upper leather with the outsole. The local shoe­maker gave Selina private lessons. And during her design studies she converted every project into shoes. Her passion led to a number of joint projects with research labs. For instance in the context of using 3D printing for the development of shoes. She also uses the computer to create her own shoe collection that she distributes online from Dortmund under the label Fritz Ferdinand.
Anna und Ran Yona, on the contrary, had little interest in shoes before they founded Wildling. They met in Israel where their three kids spent their first years going mostly barefoot. When the family moved to colder Germany in 2013, there were no child’s shoes that supported a natural walking without constricting the feet. Hence, Anna and Ran jointly designed a model with a thin and flexible sole. Using the feet of the eldest daughter, a last manufacturer developed the first last for Wildling.
The search for a manufacturing plant in Portugal and appropriate materials — cotton, hemp, linen, boiled wool — followed. To actual sucess: today Wildling employs 35 full-time workers and sells shoes for children and adults. Perhaps the most rewarding feedback came from a visually impaired client, Anna recounts: “He raved about the improved feeling for the ground.” Yes, manufacturing shoes isn’t easy. It won’t work without passion.

Author : Anja Kiel

Levit02

Sandal from / Sandale von Levit02, Photographer: Elina Solomonov

Fritz Ferdinand

Copyright: Fritz Ferdinand

Wildling Shoes

Barefoot Feeling by Wildling Shoes / Barfußfeeling mit Schuhen von Wildling, Copyright: Wildling Shoes

Rolf Rainer Footwear

Handmade Shoes by Rolf Rainer Footwear / Handgefertigt Schuhe von Rolf
Rainer Footwear

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf

Photography meets Fashion

Two tutors at the Faculty of Design report on the interdisciplinarity and collaboration of their disciplines.

Photography and Fashion – these are two independent disciplines of the Design study program at the Faculty of Design at the University of Applied Sciences Bielefeld. They are also specifically connected. Within the seminar Fashion Photography & Styling, Prof. Meiken Rau (Model Design and Fashion Design) and Prof. Emanuel Raab (Photography and Visual Media) jointly supervise students to offer optimum support for the planning and realization of conceptually developed fashion editorials.
We have interviewed them together and asked to what extent, in their view, fashion and photography are related, what inspires and guides their work and what they expect of their students.

Your course Fashion Photography & Styling combines the fields photography and fashion. How important is collaboration across disciplines at the Faculty of Design for you?

Meiken Rau: Very important. It is a special aspect that distinguishes our faculty from other universities: we offer structures and opportunities that enable our students to truly collaborate.
This regularly produces outstanding works in the field of fashion; through the development of fashion editorials in collaboration with photo­graphy and through the creation of the students' collection books in collaboration with Graphics. The faculty’s interdsiciplina­rity teaches the students now what will be common in their jobs in the future: the fact that one constantly exchanges ideas and collaborates with people from different disciplines.

Emanuel Raab: Exchange is actu­al­ly always a gain — it bears new im­pulses and ideas, new concepts and an
extension of the students’ own work. The university is a place where we can actively support this exchange. Later, during job life, one is a lone fighter most of the time. Often, possibilities are more restricted than here. This is why we encourage our students to benefit from this opportunity to see: what do others do? What is their feedback to my works? Are there impulses that may advance me and my work? In all this, communication is key.

What is the biggest advantage of the collaboration of fashion and photography students?

E R: When I joined the faculty in 2000, this cooperation was already in place. I could pick up and develop the thread. This worked extremely well from the beginning and the students have always showed great interest in it. To observe how different positions, opinions and perspectives come together to reach a common goal is exciting time and again. This isn’t always an easy task as can be experienced in the seminar. Fashion students often have a different view and a different interest in their work than the photographers who look at the joint project purely visually to begin with. Arguably, this is a new and important experience for everyone.

M R: I think it’s a win-win situation. The photography students benefit from the opportunity to engage with fashion photography – most other universities do not offer that focus. And for the fashion students photo­graphy is important because they always have to present their work bz means of photography as well. In this sense, the seminar brings together two fields that can benefit from each other.

What are the challenges and difficulties in the collaboration between students from different fields of study on the one hand and between colleagues of two disciplines on the other?

M R: Most of the time it works very well. Occasionally, however, there are teams that do not match optimally because they have e. g. different ideas and conceptions. This can be a valuable experience as well though that teaches them how and with whom they are able to cooperate well in a team. For me, for a successful collaboration with a colleague, it is important that there is a curiosity for and appreciation of the perspective the other person is offering from his / her position.

E R: In fashion photography, fashion needs the image and the image needs the fashion. This is what makes it truly appealing in the end. Other opinions, other dispositions are helpful as they contribute to questioning what one is doing, to thinking outside one’s own box, to seeing the bigger „picture“ as it were. At the Faculty of Design we try to foster and strengthen interdisciplinary thinking and working and we encourage the students to look around. Everybody has their focus but the openness for other disciplines is and stays immensely important.

Excerpt from an interview By Ly Pham and Leah Mottershead
The authors: Ly Pham and Leah Mottershead study Fashion at the Faculty for Design since the summer semester 2016. Last term, they participated in the inter­disciplinary seminar.

FH Bielefeld
Campus: Lampingstraße 3, 33615 Bielefeld
fh-bielefeld.de / gestaltung /studienrichtung-mode

FH Bielefeld

Photographer: Mara Engelsberger, Fashion: Aylin Tomta, Styling: Sarah Hägner, Aylin Tomta

FH Bielefeld

Photographer: Sari Schildt, Fashion / Styling: Tabea Hofemeister

FH Bielefeld

Photographer: Julius Stuckmann, Fashion: Karina Reich, Styling: Jade Evers

FH Bielefeld

Photographer: Stephanie Braun, Fashion / Styling: Rebecca Heine

Photography meets fashion

Photographer: Julius Stuckmann, Fashion: Aylin Tomta, Styling: Juliane Buchholz

Photography meets fashion

Photographer : Stephanie Braun, Fashion / Styling: Sarah Swoboda

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf

(ADVERTORIAL) #urbanana

Looking good!

When Cologne, Düsseldorf and the Ruhr Area are throwing all their aces in the balance as the banana-shaped metropolitan area #urbanana, they charmingly throw you completely off balance. Here, you are not only staggering past the longest bar in the world but, above all, between the collected works of North Rhine-Westphalian free spirits and pioneers in the fields of music and fashion, design and digital, festivals, young art, and architecture.

Fashion: #urbanana suits you well

Pace the catwalk up and down — on your own two feet or merely follow it with your gaze. What do you see? International fashion flair in Düssel­dorf, everyone knows the Kö. And this is the city where the big names of tomorrow held needles and threads in their hands for the first time. Marion Strehlow is one of those graduates who learned fashion in Düsseldorf. Mean­while, she a studio where she — besides fabric and patterns — keeps her very own #urbanana-award. She received it for her Behind the Scene-tour, in which she takes her guests to her peers. In the course of the tour, they also visit the small, fine labels, the fledglings of the city who are yet to be discovered.
The Belgian Quater in Cologne spreads the word of impeccable style. Once a year, display windows and courtyards are turned into pop-up stores, make-up stations, and showrooms. The icing on the cake is the fashion show in the local church, which is well worth seeing.
In the meantime, Gladbeck’s fashion heros are ready for take-off. During the New York Fashion Week, they will retell stories from the coal pot area in jersey and introduce them to the fashion world. Mallet and iron always handy, of course!

Urban Art: Oh, colorful

Do a scavenger hunt — for the rampage of urban color artists from mural to mural. #urbanana provides public spaces for their pictorial manifests. With the City Leaks Festival in Cologne as well as in Düsseldorf and the Ruhr Area they get dignified forums taking shape of various festivals. International Urban-Art-greats take paintbrushes, spray cans, sometimes even LEDs, drones and tape, to turn the spotless immaculacy or stained tristesse into a spectral spectacle. For free and outside.
NRW’s Kunstvereine (art associa­tions) aren’t any less wild. What started as confident emancipation by a citizens’ initiative from the leading corporative state in the 19th century, is continuing today in all its zealousness. There are 300 Kunst­vereine in Germany, 63 of which alone in NRW. This is where the art production and reception is encouraged, each association in its own way. The Kunst­vereine are exhibition locations and production laboratories on a non-profit basis. Here, they keep develop­ing the experimental art produc­tions in all their shapes and colors — including painting and sculpturing, but also digital art or art walks, where artists set of for artsy forays.
The Düsseldorf art academy also offers forays, in which the students invite to the sacred halls of art production at the Rhine promenade. This is where Beuys, Uecker and the Bechers made a name for themselves.

Design: Pretty good

Fall in love with the details when the design studios open their doors with the fine fragrance of creation breezing against you. We admit, it is not always easy to detect them. This is why we will show you where and how to be at the right time at the right place in #urbanana. For example, every year in October, when the decentral design festival Hello Designer Tour roughs up the stores. The pan-European #urbanana-award winner from the far west of the country dedicate the entire October to the beautiful and good things in the design sector.
On the occasion of the international furniture fair imm Cologne, Sabine Voggenreiter parallelly pairs up Cologne designers, furniture stores, design galleries and Universities with international producers and designers since 1989. The Passages, unfolding de-centrally throughout the whole city, in harbors and under bridge vaults instead of trade fair sights, are Germany’s biggest design event.

Music: the sound of #urbanana

Read the tracks where the sound of #urbanana came into being with Kraftwerk and Can, Nena and Extra­breit and where it still booms until today. Pop musical forays through Cologne, Düsseldorf and the Ruhr Area are easily done day and night when you’re following the yellow #urbananas in the web app to the sound of #urbanana.
Krautrock was born in Cologne when Karlheinz Stockhausen inspired the band members-to-be from Can with his Cologne Classes to New Music. You will, of course, take the Autobahn in Düsseldorf. Kraftwerk’s Autobahn in Düsseldorf will take you deep back into the 70s and 80s, where techno, new wave and punk gained ground in the Düsseldorf scene and emanated from there into the world. NEU!, a band emerging from Kraftwerk and Blur’s and Radio­head’s favorite, also inspired David Bowie and Sonic Youth. And then, of course, there are Die Toten Hosen. They make every punk’s heart beat faster for Düsseldorf until today. At the time of their foundation in the early 80es, the Neue Deutsche Welle (=new German wave) came into being when Nena from the city of Hagen gazed after her 99 red balloons floating into the summer sky. Major festivals in the Banana-Metropolis #urbanana are a byword for good taste and the desire to party.

We call it #urbanana

By now, you have probably already noticed that #urbanana cele­brates undiscovered spaces for expeditions off the hype. Rough concrete and dandelions, city activists and inven­tive hosts, major festivals and petite galleries, works in progress and a lot of good taste are lurking behind every corner or main station, that magnetically draws you in. So, switch on your curiosity with us and zoom from Cologne over Düsseldorf to the Ruhr area, into the districts, the streets and the courtyards. This is where we will ring the doorbells and meet mover and maker, collectors and hunters at modern strollers and — maybe even — new friends.

If you’re keen to learn more about #urbanana, visit us online at nrw-tourism.com or at our social media channels:­
Facebook: @goingurbanana
Twitter: @goingurbanana
Instagram: @goingurbanana

More info on Marion Strehlow dein-nrw.de / strehlow
Order our magazines, art maps and more at nrw-tourism.com / brochures

The project NRW als Destination für urban Lifestyle und Szene short: #urbanana, is co-funded by:

Gabriele Orsech

Gabriele Orsech, founder of Design Department — Academy of Fashion and Communication in Düsseldorf